The Disaster ArchiveThe Disaster Archive
6 min readChapter 1Americas

The World Before

On the rim of southern Colombia, Galeras rose above the department of Nariño as both landmark and threat, its cone visible from Pasto and from the rural roads that threaded the high Andes. Long before the disaster of 1993, the mountain had been a familiar part of local life: pasture on its lower slopes, fields and small settlements in the shadow of ash-bearing winds, church bells and market days in the city below, and the steady knowledge that this was no ordinary hill but one of the country’s most active volcanoes. To live in its vicinity was to live with a fixed, daily awareness that the landscape itself could become an event.

That awareness was not abstract. Pasto, the regional capital, sat close enough to the volcano that its residents could not regard Galeras as a distant natural wonder. It was part of the region’s visual grammar and part of its practical geography. Roads ran under its presence; agriculture continued in its shadow; local routines proceeded beneath a mountain whose summit could be seen from the city and from the surrounding countryside. In the years before 1993, that combination of normal life and latent danger gave Galeras a double character: a familiar landmark by day, and a recognized hazard at all times. The mountain did not need to announce itself in order to be present.

For scientists, Galeras was attractive precisely because it was not quiet. It belonged to the category of volcanoes that reward attention and punish carelessness. By the late twentieth century, Colombian volcanology had become more systematic, and the volcano drew repeated observation from the national observatory in Pasto and from visiting researchers from abroad. That scientific attention was grounded in physical evidence visible in the landscape: old lava flows, altered rock near the summit, fumarolic vents that breathed heat into the cold Andean air, and a history of eruptions that meant the mountain could not be treated as a relic. The summit was not an empty symbol but an active system, altered repeatedly by heat, gas, and past eruptive behavior. In this setting, a day in the field could feel routine even when the underlying problem was anything but.

The people who worked near Galeras lived with a double truth. Residents understood that the volcano was part of their geography, but they also needed roads, grazing land, and access to the slopes. Pasto, the regional capital, depended on the ordinary functioning of transport, schools, markets, and government, all of which sat inside the broader shadow of a volcano. That tension — between economic life and geologic hazard — is the first reason this eruption mattered. The second is that scientific monitoring, though improved, still left wide gaps in understanding what an active volcano would do next. The mountain could be watched; it could not be made to explain itself in advance.

By the early 1990s, the volcano had entered a phase of renewed concern. Seismic activity, gas emissions, and changes visible to observers suggested unrest, but unrest is not a calendar. It does not tell a field team when an explosion will begin, only that the probability has changed. In volcanic-risk work, that uncertainty is the central dilemma: if you close access too broadly, you can lose opportunities to learn; if you allow access too freely, the mountain may collect a price. That price is often paid in seconds, and it can arrive with no warning beyond what the instruments and the eye are able to register in time.

The scientific culture surrounding active volcanoes in that period still carried a strong field tradition. Researchers approached vents, craters, and gas plumes not only with instruments but with the confidence that comes from repeated exposure. They took measurements by hand, read the terrain closely, and relied on judgment sharpened by experience. Yet judgment can be vulnerable to habit. A volcano that has emitted steam, ash, or small bursts without catastrophe can seduce experts into thinking the next look will be like the last one. The evidence can be real and still be interpreted through the routines of familiarity.

That was the hidden vulnerability at Galeras: not only the geologic state of the mountain, but the human confidence built around accessing it. The official systems of protection existed — monitoring, advisories, local observatory warnings, coordination between national and foreign scientists — but they were not a sealed barrier. Scientific gatherings are social as well as technical. Decisions are negotiated among colleagues, and access on a volcano often depends on consensus under uncertainty. In such an environment, caution must compete with the practical demands of research, travel, and coordination among teams who are all looking at the same mountain and not all reading its signals in the same way.

The stakes were broader than a single expedition. A volcano near a city of more than a quarter-million people forces planners to think about evacuation routes, communication failures, and how quickly rumor can outrun data. Even before any explosion, Galeras sat inside a chain of responsibility reaching from the crater lip down to neighborhoods in Pasto. The question was not whether the mountain mattered, but whether people had enough room — physical and organizational — to retreat when it changed mood. That problem belonged not just to volcanology but to civil protection, local governance, and the practical limits of warning systems in a setting where people had to continue living and working under a dangerous summit.

What made Galeras especially dangerous was that its menace did not advertise itself in a single dramatic way. There was no long, obvious countdown. Instead there was the quieter logic of active volcanism: a system that can move from nuisance to lethal violence without much warning. That makes every visit to the summit a test of assumptions. The mountain had already shown that it was capable of sudden behavior, and yet scientists continued to climb it because that was how they hoped to understand it. The same access that generated knowledge also created exposure, and the gap between those two facts was the space in which disaster could unfold.

In the days before the 1993 eruption, the summit area remained a place where fieldwork could still be organized, questions still posed, and instruments still read. Researchers prepared to climb, local experts weighed the risk, and the volcano gave no definitive answer. The slope held its steam and its silence. Then, on the day that would become the central point of the Galeras tragedy, the ordinary logic of observation carried a group of scientists and assistants toward the crater rim, and the mountain began to give its first warning in a form no one could ignore.